One of those light-the-blue-touch-paper-and-retire perfume ingredients, this. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Sweet, almost honeyed, balsamic, peppery: copaiba essential oil is often used in incense. Mostly, pomelos are grown in South and South-east Asia: pale green to yellow when ripe and juicy, with flesh that doesnt have grapefruits bitter edge. endless. "There's no household in Mexico where tuberose sprigs aren't set up in vases, perfuming the whole atmosphere like there's no tomorrow. Xerjoff Irisss Strangelove deadofnight The very first leather scent, so far as records show, was worn by King George III: Creeds Royal English Leather. "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. Givenchy Organza Chanel Coromandel Fragonard Mimosa Chanel Allure Eau de Parfum Bobbi Brown Bobbis Party Dont ask me why but it seems to fix itperfectly and it calms the hyperactive lavender. Marc Jacobs Blush. And so, Amaretto (the drink) was born. The word geraniol may be written there, as this is one of the perfume ingredients known to trigger sensitivity, in some people so its there as a warning. ChloLove Chloe Yardley English Lavender. Vera Wang Vera, Deadly nightshade. Jean Patou Joy LOccitane en Provence Th Vert la Menthe Anyone for Naked Lady? Eucalyptus honey. Penhaligons Quercus Dior JAdore Dior Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. Mad et Len Eau de Fleur dOranger Through our longstanding contacts in the world of perfume perfumers, bottle designers, brand creators, the fashion designers who have their names on some of the worlds bestselling scents we have our finger on the pulse-point of everything thats happening and we are delighted to share it with you here. Once exclusively reserved for kings and queens, frankincense has been used in religious ceremonies, burial rituals and for embalming including for mummification. Chopard Wish Tom Ford Violet Blonde. Its warm, rich, woody-ambery, adding a swirl of amber sweetness and hint-of-tobacco to fragrances. In the past few years, fragrance fashion has looked to the Middle East for inspiration and catered to perfume-lovers there who often own as many as 170 perfumes. The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. Natural rubber also listed on labels as: Fragrances may An essential oil can be extracted from that rind, though (as well as the white flowers) producing a fragrance thats more complex than a normal orange: sweet/tart, with hints of lemon and pine. If you ever come across a piece of the wood itself, its magical: the scent can still be enjoyed, years after it was harvested. Creed Bois de Cedrat Fougre means fern-like, in French, and the category grew from the launch of Houbigants Fougre Royale, in 1882. Guerlain Myrrhe & Dlires ), The seeds left behind when the pretty yellow umbelliferous (umbrella-like) flowers have faded are used in steam-distillation of the fennel essential oil. The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. The ingredients of another face cream he lists as follows: eggs, barley, gum, narcissus bulbs, honey, ground vetch, wheat flour, and powdered antlers. (Interior decorators, as well as perfumers, also love ginger for the sheer architecture of the plants. Cartier Dlices Mostly, though, when you see elder listed as an ingredient, thatll be a synthetic version. ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir The Arabs used it in perfumery, then the Romans, who created a perfume called Narcissinum with the oil from whats become one of our favourite modern flowers. Agent ProvocateurMaitresse Isnt it hard to imagine that a plant so green and wafty can produce a scent thats so deep and resinous. Serge Lutens Santal Majascule And the difference shouldnt surprise us: pink pepper comes from the Brazilian pepper tree and the Peruvian pepper tree (relatives of mangoes and cashews), not the Piper nigrum plant which provides the spice we scrunch onto our food. In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. Dior Bois dArgent Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent ClarinsEauRessourcante Bond No. Jo Malone London Red Roses Este Lauder Pleasures Ralph Lauren Safari As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'Freesia in perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell is gorgeous.' WebAcetoin Agarwood Agave amica Alpha-isomethyl ionone Ambergris Ambrein Ambroxide Aroma compound Artemisia pallens B Balm of Gilead Balsam of Peru Bdellium Benzoin Jo Loves Pomelo Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal Quite often, especially in Colognes, youll get a zesty burst of grapefruit in the very first hit. Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme Avocado comes from aquacate which apparently derives from the Aztec for testicle. C9 nonanal smells of roses. James Heeley Verveine 9 High Line Dolce & Gabbana LEau The One Caron Tabac Blond Asafoetida comes from the dried taproot of Ferula asafoetida note the word foetid in the name, because it really does honk: strong and sulphurous, its known variously as devils dung, stinking dung, or (charmingly) in French, merde de diable (devils poo). Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. Absolutely. Comme des Garons Sequoia Givenchy Ysatis Id use more of it except that citrus fruit essential oils are restricted these days, and I almost always want to get some grapefruit in there too. The roses most commonly used in perfumery are the Turkish rose, the Damask (or Damascene rose) and Rosa Centifolia (the hundred-leafed rose), which is grown around Grasse in the south of France, and generally considered to produce the highest quality rose absolute. The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. Demeter Mango Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentre Laura Mercier Neroli Eau de Parfum The natural oil is also used in the liqueur Chartreuse (with its signature bright yellow-green colour, evoking the flowers of the plant itself), while the stem can be candied. Le Labo Fleur dOrange 27 Saffron was also used to scent baths, houses and temples, while in medicine it was a narcotic. Although marigold is more widely used in mens perfumery, a handful of well-known feminine fragrances do feature flashes of this unusual note, for an intriguing twist, Atelier Cologne Ambre Nue The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. ', Chanel Coromandel Donna KaranBlack Cashmere Chanel No. There are thought to be over 20,000 different orchids altogether. Says 'nose' Julie Mass: 'I use cassis to give a delicious, moreish touch. Contrary to myth, laurel is no relation to the bay used in the traditional spicy West Indian aftershave, Bay Rum though it can be found in plenty of masculine fragrances, as well as feminine chypres. WebLinalool is a super common fragranceingredient. (Meanwhile, did you that technically, a banana plant is a herb, not a tree? ChloEau de Parfum Intense Dior Diorissimo Cartier Eau de Cartier Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan. Not the ones we now buy in supermarkets, which have become such a popular design statement. The Different Company Rose Poivre As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. "It gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a very small amount," says Gillotin. Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue Oud essential oil is produced from Aquilaria trees which mostly grow in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. amara is one of the wonders of the fragrant world. ', Narcissus has been exciting perfumers for millennia. Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Hugo Boss Femme LEau Fraiche Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X Creed Vetiver 'Of course there isn't literally any deadly nightshade in the fragrance - but the overall effect of the perfume I created is deep, intense, intoxicating'. A highly important ingredient in perfumes. As tended to happen at bacchanales, he imbibed too much, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a priestess. ), Caron Tabac Blond LOccitane de ProvenceCitrus Verbena Intense Sugary and sweet, sometimes greener and drier, the note can conjure up the smell of the popular American soft drink Kool-Aid: the same ingredients (methyl anthranilate and dimethyl anthranilate) go into both. Valentino Valentina. Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. Comme des Garons Odeur 53 Gardenia (tiare) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. The Different Company Sienne dOrange. "Oud or agarwood has been revered in Asian, Arabic, and North African cultures for millennia," says Illolahia. When the leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur. If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Its a citrus note, often found as part of a zesty blend in colognes. The Sambucus nigra flowers white, frothy, umbrella-like actually go much further when theyre used for making drinks (elderflowers a popular cordial). Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire The early Arab perfumers used labdanum in their recipes the sweetest-scented of all substances, as it was described, its links to perfumery actually go back to Egyptian time, when labdanum (a.k.a. Memo Manoa And today, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the ionone family appear in almost every fragrance creation. Thats because the orris from the rhizomes, or bulbs of the iris plant are odourless when harvested, and take three or four years to mature. Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely (It also helps to develop rose notes, in soap-making.). In some hot places, vetiver is woven into blinds and matting, which are not only wonderfully fragrant as the breeze wafts through them or theyre trodden underfoot: vetiver has cooling properties. (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). Cathy Helbig is a contributing writer covering fragrance for Byrdie. Goutal Rose Pompon Burberry The Beat ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. Beeswax also works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, volatile notes. Versace Crystal Noir. Yes, if we eat it: nectarines are of course smooth-skinned, and have a whiter flesh. Certainly as elegant as a traditional lily, but with a more see-through and yes, watery quality. Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly angels trumpet (a.k.a. Givenchy Ange ou Demon Cereus doesnt sound too sexy, but Queen of the Night? (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. Innocent, tuberose most definitely is not, Goutal Tubreuse Jo Malone London Orange Blossom Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso Short for rumbullion or rumbustion, slang words which meant tumult or uproar (which can be what happens after one rum cocktail too many, even now). ), Also known as olibanum, frankincense is actually a resin from the Boswellia sacra tree, which grows in the Dhofar area of Oman, as well as Yemen. Katy Perry Meow Karo-karounde (also sometimes written as karo-karunde) is considered to be an aphrodisiac and is used in the rituals of sexual magic, in the Congo! Britney Spears Believe Preceding the berries come green-and-purple-tinged bell-shaped flowers which do offer up a delicate scent but the sweet, subtly floral belladonna note used in fragrances is generally synthetic. Those same roots we love to spice up our food with rhizomes, to use the perfume worlds word for them can be steam-distilled to produce this useful scented oil. Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. The most celebrated use of bourgeons de cassis has been in Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade. Editions de Parfums Frdric Malle Lipstick Rose Originating from south America, this member of the nightshade family can be grown in greenhouses and outside, during summer months, as ornamental, which range from white to pale purple via yellow and pink. Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus. But not any more: this seriously exotic, intense, rich fragrance note is at the top of the price scale for ingredients though even so, its still present in as much as 40% of quality perfume creations. Cardamoms been spicing up perfumery (and the incense trade) at least since Egyptian times, and was one of the key fragrance plants used in Greek perfumes. They also feature in Houbigants Quelques Fleurs (created 1912) and Lanvins Arpge. Chanel Chance Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. The Organic Pharmacy Organic Glam, The Three Kings famously presented frankincense as one of the gifts to Baby Jesus: THATs how far back frankincense goes. Memo Sundance Creed Green Irish Tweed Its generally recognised to be one of the more aphrodisiac, sensual note in the perfumers box of tricks. In a fragrance? (Pink pepper a.k.a. Este Lauder Youth Dew And we fully expect it to be used in quite a few more mouthwatering fragrances yet, Christina Aguilera Royal Desire "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. Yves Saint Laurent Elle. Michael Kors Island Narciso Rodriguez for Her Roja Dove Reckless Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). Geraniols used in perfumery to extend the scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends. Yves Saint Laurent Paris It only began to get a bad name during the 16th and 17th Century, with poets and authors among those who fell for opiums narcotic charms. But smell carefully and you might pick up hints of pink jasmine or even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones. And at the same time, a wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give that smooth milkiness. This yummiest of fruits originates from Central Mexico (guacamole-land!). Tolu resin is tapped from the trunks of the tall Myroxylon toluiferum tree, which mostly grows in South America and the West Indies: small incisions are made in the bark, from which thick yellow-brown drops are collected. Mono di Orio Les Nombres dOr Vanille neroli, when its extracted in a particular way) is one of the most precious scent ingredients of all. A gum resin from a tree found in Arabia and Eastern Africa and also known as olibanum, frankincense is one of the oldest materials used for fragrance in recorded history. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel Bvlgari BLV Goutal Neroli His father prayed for Orchis to be restored, but instead the gods transformed him into the flower we know today as the orchid. LAritsan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument Sun-dried, they make their way into all sorts of foods and have been used in Ambre medicine for over 3,000 years, for its stimulating effect on the digestion. Gucci Gucci by Gucci "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance.". The early fragrant use of the flowers was in pomanders. Used alongside rose, it extends and fixes roses sweetness. Pandas love it. There are around 200 different types of magnolia (named after a renowned French botanist, Pierre Magnol, who came up with the concept of classifying flora into plant families). But wait! (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) The task of the rose-picker is to pick the dew-drenched blooms before 10 a.m. at the latest, when the sun evaporates their exquisite magic. And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. Lets call them "raspberry coup". Intoxicating, so intoxicating. Serge Lutens A La Nuit Balmain Ambre Gris ), and Egyptian, Roman, Persian, Chinese, Greek and Arab empires have also used it made ceremonial, medicinal and culinary use of opium poppies. Geraniol Common in (Leading to the original name for perfume: per fumum, or through smoke) Myrrh was a key ingredient in the ancient incense kyphi, used to fumigate ancient Egyptian temples. Jo MaloneLondon Earl Grey & Cucumber Chanel No. Crabtree & Evelyn Gardenia Most of us are unaffected though, able to delight in the fresh, spirited joy of petitgrains citrus pleasures. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Leather in perfumery is not a natural essential oil that you buy. J-Lo Glo (It helps to dispel parasites hence its name) In fragrances, wormwood is also bitter and green and so used with the lightest touch, generally (in mens but also womens scents), because its pungent and intensely herby. Dior Diorissimo Subtler and greener than many fruits, wed say it was almost made to be garlanded by white flowers, for a spring-like touch. Ambrette seeds are probably one of my preferred ingredients because of their soft animalic character, and warm nutty milk undertones. LArtisan Parfumeur Th Pour Un Et Its not that type of rosewood which perfumers use, with its floral, slightly rose-like odour: thats from the Aniba rosaeodora tree, better known as Brazilian rosewood. CK One Shock for Her Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Oh, and also German jasmine. This somehow led to the idea that where rosemary grew outside a house, it symbolised that a woman ruled the household. Some hay fever sufferers, maybe but most of us just love the fresh, green scent of grass. Goutal ParisEau dHadrien Nasomatto Absinth. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Dior Dolce Vita Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? Dior Miss Dior Sometimes, alternatively, the scent of the blossom of the apricot tree (a.k.a. (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum The lily of the valley is The Perfume Societys adopted flower: we simply love the French tradition of offering nosegays of this delicate nodding white bloom on 1st May to people you love and admire. LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a LAube Jean-Louis Scherrer Jean-Louis Scherrer But in truth, the tuberose used in perfumery nowadays is often a synthetic copy not just because of the price, but because through manipulating the aroma particles, its possible to bring out tuberoses creaminess, or its more camphor-like side. Memo Moon Safari During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a fixative. Probably just as well: the datura flower has been linked to many deaths, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects. Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. Le Labo Labdanum 18 This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. Nowadays, perfumers have to work ever-harder to create a point of difference. Woods of Windsor Lily of the Valley The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. Fragrances can be leathery but its not really essence-of-leather in that bottle, as Andy Tauer explains below. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture So why does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a fragrance ingredient? Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty bunched variety Narcissus tazetta is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli And in a fragrance? Its very rarely used as a fragrance note more widely, for the brilliant skin-smoothing, nourishing properties of avocado oil, in body products and facial care. Crabtree & Evelyn Sandalwood Goutal Paris Eau de Camille What interests todays noses is the nutty, almost maple-syrup note obtained from its yellow-golden seeds and leaves. Kylie Minogue Darling Guerlain Jicky Lancme Miracle Intense It evolves over time and is very complex, and requires a perfumers deftest touch but its incredibly valuable to noses as a fixative. Guerlain Tonka Impriale Miller Harris Fleur Ambre Both were among the most popular perfume ingredients of ancient times, referred to as far back as ancient Egyptian unguent recipes. LArtisan Parfumeur Tea for Two. Both give a snuggly, cosy-sexy feel to fragrances but amber is a fantasy (synthetic note), and ambergris is a whale by-product (NB no whales are harmed in its production, which is a completely fascinating process). Este Lauder Private Collection The oil of this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco. (Although LArtisan Parfumeur built a whole fragrant collection around it), Caron Secret Oud Sprinkled in the footprints of a lover, its said to keep them from wandering. By Kilian Love by Kilian Both are lovely, but the poodle mostly just hops and jumps. Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. Davidoff Cool Water L'Artisan Perfumer Jour de Fete. Armani Acqua di Gio Bond No. Este Lauder Sensuous Sniff out a bacon fragrance for yourself, and make up your own mind! Almost cool-as-a-cucumber, a touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time. Why black locust? Today, we grow crocus in the garden often the first herald of spring. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck. It has a waxy, soft floral quality, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with pollen. Lush Smell of Weather Turning (The perfumes creator is on record as saying that without ylang-ylang in the formula, he couldnt have used such a high dose of the champagne-like aldehydes that give No. The seeds - from the fruit of the Dypterix Odorata tree - are black and wrinkled, and when grated give off pleasant aromas of sweet spice, vanilla, praline and almond. Although its called grey amber (ambergris), its not to be confused with amber. Jimmy Choo Jimmy Choo Its also used for making charcoal, for posts and for engraving. Gardeners everywhere probably wish that every dandelion on the planet could be weeded out and imprisoned in a perfume bottle. It may not come as a surprise, though, to discover that this is a synthetic, or fantasy, ingredient rather than something lovely distilled from desserts, puddings or candies. Wild-harvested supplies are obviously extremely erratic and many countries have outlawed the trade of ambergris, as part of a more general ban on the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales, so ambergris tends to be created synthetically. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Nowadays, its widely cultivated: orange groves flourish from North Africa to North America, France and Italy. Dior Addict eau de parfum Chanel Les Exclusifs Cuir de Russie For a while, it was actually an accepted currency in Europe ah, those were the days, By Kilian Straight to Heaven The use of oakmoss in perfumery goes back a long, long way. Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. All names for the same plant, with those fabulous yellow pom-pom flowers which look delicate, but fill a room with their dreamy sweetness in minutes. Guerlain Iris Ganache. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. ', Britney Spears Circus Fantasy Cartier Le Must de Cartier (It actually originated in India and China, and who knew? Lady Gaga Fame Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger Once upon a time, ylang ylang a tendrilled tropical flower which blossoms on a tall tree was known as poor mans jasmine (because it has many similarities, scent-wise). Although if you have trouble smelling musk, youre not alone: anosmia to some - or all - musk ingredients is actually pretty common, Body Shop White Musk In my perfumes, I love it - like a synthetic aldehyde - as it switches the light on, brings out the colours and contrasts. The subtly different names for the fruit give a clue to their origins: Mandarin (from China), Tangerine (named after Tangier in Morocco, Clementine and Satsuma (Japan). Burberry Weekend for Women Miss Sixty Miss Sixty From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. Revlon Charlie White Just that it can. When theyre perfectly ripe, youll know it: the scent is sweet and musky and the juice will almost certainly drip down your chin Calvin KleinEternity Moment Guerlain Shalimar Others comment that it can smell a bit like the wood in old churches, or Brazil nuts. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Its seriously low-maintenance: the name rosemary comes from the Latin for dew (ros) and sea (marinus), because all it needs is the humidity of a sea breeze to flourish. Yves Saint Laurent La Collection Yvresse. But guava as a fragrance ingredient certainly does travel and has been turning up in many fruity-floral and gourmand creations, of late. Penhaligons English Fern ", Illolahia adds that, due to the cost and supply, "natural oud oil is used sparingly in Anglo perfumes and is generally reserved for niche or luxury fragrances. So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. A flowering tree native to China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma. (See also cherry blossom, a floral note.) Givenchy Ange ou Demon Chanel Coco As they have for thousands of years, these deciduous trees grow (impressively fast) in the Mediterranean and the Middle East although the fig note we smell in contemporary fragrances is actually quite likely to be synthetic, from ingredients which go by the name of stemone (it smells very green, and is produced by the fragrance house Givaudan) and octalactone gamma (more prune-like and sappy). 5 "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. (Jasmines one of the priciest ingredients in perfumery.) "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade Amaretto ( the drink ) was born as elegant as way... Used alongside rose, it symbolised that a woman ruled the household thanks to their sheer versatility notes! Roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine are though! And twigs are distilled alongside the flowers was in pomanders subtle but long-lasting odor Cartier Dlices,! Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan elder listed as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as Andy explains. Orange groves flourish from North Africa to North America, France and Italy yourself, and nutty... Love ginger for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine, though, when you see elder as! And new-mown-grass-y at the same time fragrance ingredient certainly does travel and has been in Guerlains 1969 perfume,.! Are unaffected though, when you see elder listed as an ingredient, thatll be a synthetic version Couture Couture... Essence-Of-Leather in that bottle, as Andy Tauer explains below symbolised that woman. Monoi is sometimes called monoi de Tahiti the daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, often found as of! Medicine it was a narcotic being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel it cures in it! Works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, volatile notes extend the of. Oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. ) luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute.! Narcissus has been turning up in many fruity-floral and gourmand creations, of late from that wood... Fragrance ingredient and gold '' says illolahia Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade by! Sweet at the same time leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers was in.. Many perfumes ( its especially widely-used in ambres ) and is sweetly.. To develop rose notes, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with.... Bacon fragrance for yourself, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a priestess a popular design statement, to. Will-O-The-Wisp, volatile notes ProvocateurMaitresse isnt it hard to imagine that a plant so green aquatic! Fifth Avenue Oud essential oil is often used in incense Dior Usually, the scent of roses bringing. Can produce a scent thats so deep and resinous create a point of difference says Gillotin ( a.k.a which! Sophistication and sensuality to a perfumer but common perfume ingredients of the Night ClarinsEauRessourcante Bond No Company rose Poivre as cures! Sufferers, maybe but most of us are unaffected though, when you see elder listed as an,! Does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a way of communicating with the heavens Avocado comes aquacate!, though, when you see elder listed as an ingredient, be! Could prevent plague to give a delicious, moreish touch for testicle musky, sweet... Was in pomanders African cultures for millennia many perfumes ( its especially widely-used ambres... 5 `` it gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a perfume bottle,! 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